Table Saws
Table saws cause tens of thousands of serious injuries every year, including many amputations. Most come from hand contact with the blade and from kickback.
- Construction
- General Industry
Photo: jobsite table saw with blade guard, riving knife and a push stick in use
Set-up
- Blade guard and riving knife (or splitter) installed and aligned
- Anti-kickback pawls in place
- Blade height set just above the material (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch above, or per the manual)
- Fence parallel to the blade and locked
- Saw stable and level; outfeed support for long boards
- Push sticks and push blocks within reach
Ripping and crosscutting
- Rip cuts (along the grain) use the fence. Crosscuts use the miter gauge or a sled, never the fence alone.
- Use a push stick whenever your hand would come within about 6 inches of the blade.
- Stand slightly to the side of the blade, out of the kickback path.
- Feed steadily all the way through the cut. Don’t stop halfway.
- Turn the saw off and wait for the blade to stop before clearing scraps.
- Don’t reach over or behind a spinning blade.
- Don’t use the fence and the miter gauge at the same time (the piece can bind and kick back).
- Don’t cut freehand.
- Don’t wear gloves, loose sleeves or jewelry near the blade.
- Don’t cut warped or twisted boards on the fence.
Tip: Flesh-sensing table saws stop the blade within milliseconds of skin contact, greatly reducing injuries. They’re worth considering for any crew.
Video: rip cut with push stick and riving knife
Standards & references
- 29 CFR 1926.304: Woodworking tools
- 29 CFR 1910.213: Woodworking machinery requirements
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